Organic Pesticides that work from natures best farm.

 Insecticidal Soap.
     
   Insecticidal soap contains unsaturated long-chain fatty acids (derived               from  animal fats) that dissolve the cuticle (skin) of insects. Insecticidal             soap sprays are commercially formulated products sold specifically for               insect control. (Don't confuse these products with herbicidal soaps,                   which kill vegetation instead of insects, or household soaps, which are               detergents.)

    How to Make Insecticidal Soap 

         Combine one cup of oil, any variety, such as vegetable, peanut, corn, soybean, etc.               with one tablespoon of dishwashing liquid or other “pure” soap.  

          Mix two teaspoons of this “soap” mixture to every cup of warm water and put into                  a spray bottle.

To be effective, the insecticidal soap must come in contact with the insects while it's still liquid—it has no effect after it dries on the plants. Spray only on pests and try to avoid hitting beneficial insects with the spray. Caution: Insecticidal soap can burn some plant leaves. Test each type of plant before spraying the entire plant. Spray a few leaves, then wait 48 hours. If there's no damage, go ahead and spray the entire plant. Don't spray on hot days, and rinse the soap off your plants after a few hours if the plants are receiving a lot of sunshine. If you have hard water, mix the soap with distilled water to help the soap dissolve.

Pests controlled: Insecticidal soap sprays are highly effective against mites, aphids, whiteflies, and other soft-bodied insects as well as the softer nymph stages of some tough-bodied bugs.

Oil Sprays.

Oil sprays work by suffocating pests. To be effective, the oil spray must hit the pest directly.

Use Neem oil to kill insect pest eggs and disease spores on the bare branches of trees and shrubs during the dormant season. To treat growing plants, use a lighter-weight, more refined horticultural oil (called "summer," "supreme," or "superior" oil). Lighter oils evaporate more quickly than dormant oils and are less likely to damage plants.

To avoid plant damage, don't spray any plants suffering from moisture stress. Also, don't spray on very hot days. Test the spray on just a few leaves before you spray the entire plant. Wait 48 hours to make sure no leaf spotting or discoloration occurs.

To minimize potential harm to beneficial insects, limit your spraying to small areas where you can see pests lurking, and leave a couple of unsprayed "refuges" for any good bugs you can't see. Protect nectar-feeding beneficials by not spraying during peak flowering times and by not spraying blossoms. Spray early in the morning, before bees become active. And if you plan to release beneficials, do it after you apply the oil spray.

Pests controlled: Use horticultural oils to combat aphids, mites, beetles, leaf miners, caterpillars, thrips, leafhoppers, and whiteflies.

Bacillus Thuringiensis

Bacillus thuringiensis (BT) is a naturally occurring bacterium found in the soil. There are many different types, and some can be used to kill a specific insect or class of insects. When a target insect takes a bite of a plant sprayed with the type of BT the insect is sensitive to, the insect gets infected and stops feeding. Inside the insect, the bacterium releases a protein that causes the pest to die within a few days.

Each type of BT is effective only on one specific insect (or group) and only on insects that actually eat it. However, that doesn't mean you can spray it indiscriminately. For example, the type that kills cabbage loopers can also kill the caterpillars of the beautiful butterflies you're trying to attract to your garden. Only spray it when you know you have a pest problem, and only spray the pest-infested plants.

Most formulations of this bacterium are sold as a liquid or wettable powder that you dilute with water and then spray on the plants you want to protect. Some products are sold in the form of dusts or granules that you dust directly on plants.

Because BT usually is effective only against the nonadult stage of pest insects, you must time applications carefully. As soon as you spot the pest larvae, thoroughly coat the affected plants with the spray or dust.  Avoid spraying during the heat of day. BT breaks down a day or two after spraying, so you may need to reapply it if you're up against a severe infestation. As with all sprays or dusts, always wear goggles and a mask to prevent contact with the bacterium when you apply it to your plants.

Parasitic Nematodes.

Don't confuse these beneficial nematodes with destructive root-knot nematodes. Once inside a pest, parasitic nematodes release bacteria that kills the insect host within a day or two. Although these good nematodes occur naturally in the soil, there usually aren't enough of them in one place to control pests that have gotten out of hand in your garden. But you can buy them by the billions for use as a living—and organic, safe, and nontoxic—form of pest control.

The dormant nematodes are shipped in a moist medium, which you mix with water when you're ready to apply. When you receive a shipment, put the sealed container in your refrigerator until you are ready to use it (the nematodes will keep there for about 4 months). Try to use them as soon as possible, though; their effectiveness declines the longer you store them. Once the nematodes are mixed with water for application, they are only viable for a very short time. Use all of the mix within a few hours—don't try to save any of it.

Apply the nematodes to moist soil that has reached a temperature of at least 60°F, either in the evening or when it's overcast, at a rate of about 23 million nematodes per 1,000 square feet. Thoroughly cover the area with the nematodes, then water them in. Exception: If your pest is in the plant (the squash vine borer or corn earworm), mix up a small batch of nematodes and use a garden syringe or eye-dropper to apply them just inside the tip of the ear of corn, or into the squash vine entrance holes.

Pests controlled: Nematodes attack and invade army worms, corn ear worms, squash vine borers, soil-dwelling grubs (including Japanese beetle larvae), weevils, root maggots, and cutworms (in their soil-dwelling stages).

How to fix citrus tree problems from natures best farm.

Why does my lemon tree have yellow leaves?

 Citrus Tree Problems.

As you anticipate the joy of plucking that homegrown lemon, it's disappointing to discover your tree has more yellow leaves than yellow lemons. What's going on? Here are the main reasons lemons develop yellow leaves and how to keep them green and lush.

PROBLEMS AND SOLUTIONS

Keep in mind older leaves may not return to green after applying these remedies but new growth should be green and healthy and the yellow leaves will fall.

1. NOT ENOUGH FERTILISER

Much like teenagers, lemons burn through lots of nutrients. When the tree runs out of nutrients its older leaves may become yellow. Apply a complete citrus food twice a year aiming for mid summer and late winter. Water well before and after applying fertiliser. Spread the fertiliser over the soil around the tree. Follow the application rates suggested on the container.

2. NOT ENOUGH IRON

A lack of iron can cause lemon leaves to yellow. As a quick fix water the tree with iron chelates, which is a form of soluble iron available from garden centre or hardware stores.

3. NOT ENOUGH WATER

Lemon trees need regular and deep watering that reaches the root system. When plants dry out they don't get enough nutrients. Lack of water can be a major problem for containerised trees. After watering check that the water has soaked into the soil and not simply drained away leaving the roots dry. If the soil below the surface is still dry, apply a soil wetting agent to encourage the soil or potting mix to better absorb water and water again.

4. PESTS

Citrus bugs, scale and aphids can affect the health of the lemon and its leaves. Seeing ants along the stems is a sign that the tree has pests. Aphids appear on new growth and can be squashed or hosed off. Scale appears on stems or backs of leaves. Apply horticultural spray oil (follow the instructions on the container). Adult citrus bugs are green and with care can be knocked from the tree into a container of soapy water. Wear sunglasses when doing this as these pests squirt a toxic liquid that can burn eyes. Spraying with horticultural oil in winter reduces pest numbers. Without the pests, the ants too should disappear.

5. TOO COLD

Lemon trees prefer a warm subtropical climate, but grow in cooler climates if sheltered from cold winds and cold winter conditions. When the tree is cold its roots are unable to absorb enough nutrients to keep the leaves green so they turn yellow. Shelter lemons from cold winds with plastic, a screen or a hedge. Keep the plant watered through winter but don't apply fertiliser until spring when temperatures warm and the tree shows signs of new growth.

6. ROOT BOUND

Lemons that are grown in containers may outgrow the space in one to two years, leaving the plant unable to take up enough water and nutrients to thrive. To provide more space, repot the lemon into a slightly larger container with fresh potting mix. Select a good quality potting mix and work in about 10 per cent by volume of compost. For long-term success, grow a dwarf lemon in a large container.

7. ENGULFED IN WEEDS

Lemons don't like sharing. To keep trees green, leafy and productive remove all competing weeds and grass from under and around a lemon. Replace the weeds with a 2-5cm layer of coarse organic mulch mixed with aged manure. Keep mulch away from the tree trunk.

WANT MORE ON CITRUS?...

• How to grow lots of fruit on your citrus trees
• How to grow citrus in pots
• What to consider when choosing a citrus tree
• How to grow citrus trees
• More tips on how to grow citrus

How to grow fruit trees from Natures Best Farm

How to grow fruit trees in sri lanka.

A tropical fruit paradise.

How to plant a fruit tree

Volume 90%

• All fruit trees need full sun, good drainage and room to grow.
• Plant trees in winter, whether they're deciduous, stone fruit or citrus.
• Citrus, peach, nectarine and apricot trees are self-fertile, which means they fruit even if growing on their own.
• But apple, pear, cherry and plum trees need a cross-pollinator to fruit.

GROW A HOME ORCHARD

Many of us are already on board with growing vegies in our backyards, but why stop there? As many fruit trees are ornamental as well as productive, they can be grown as a feature tree or to provide shade. Deciduous fruit trees area another option, providing spring flowers, summer fruit, autumn leaf colour and allowing the sun stream through their bare winter branches.

If you're a little apprehensive about growing fruit trees and suspect they'll demand precision pruning and a high degree of maintenance, don't be. While orchardists tend their crops with regular pruning, fruit thinning, spray treatments and fertiliser, in order to grow perfect fruit and produce heavy crops, us home gardeners can get by with a lot less effort. Indeed if the thought of pruning worries you, most trees bare some fruit even without pruning.

WHEN TO PLANT

Deciduous fruit trees such as apple, pear, fig and stone fruit including peach, nectarine, apricot and plum are all available and ready for planting in winter. If you buy in the cooler season you'll be able to save money, as they are sold as bare-rooted trees. If you leave your purchase until spring, you'll be buying a potted tree that costs a little more money and will be in flower or even in leaf.

Also available for planting in winter are all the citrus including orange, lemon, mandarin and lime. These are sold as potted specimens all year round, but winter is the ideal planting time.

Remember all fruit trees need full sun, good drainage and room to grow. Avoid overcrowding fruit trees by checking how wide they'll grow and then spacing the trees — from other plants and from surfaces such as walls and fences — to give them as much area as they need. Not only will the tree look better, it will be easier to maintain.

WHEN TO PRUNE

The safest time to prune most backyard fruit trees is after you've picked the crop in summer. Pruning at this time also tends to restrict growth. Restrict winter pruning to removal of suckers, dead wood and broken or crossing-over branches.

MORE THAN ONE?

One of the main concerns when planting a new fruit tree is whether it produces its crop with or without a partner. Always ask about the need for pollinators when you are choosing a fruit tree.

If a tree is self-fertile, it fruits even if it is growing by itself. Peach, nectarine and apricot all tend to be self-fertile, which means they'll produce good crops where there's only room for a single tree. Citrus trees are also self-fertile, which is why they are one of the most popular fruit trees in Aussie gardens.

If a fruit tree needs cross-pollination for fruiting, plant another tree of another variety that flowers at the same time and is close by, or you'll have little or no fruit. A tree in a neighbouring garden can provide the pollen for cross-pollination if it is in bloom around the same time as your tree.

As a general guide, apple, pear, cherry and plum all need a cross pollinator. An apple requires another apple of a different variety, although in some cases a nearby crabapple helps out. Most pears need another pear for fruiting, however the flowers of pear trees can pollinate nashi fruit. Most cherries and plums are fussy about pollinators, needing just the right compatible variety, however Stella cherry is self-fertile and can pollinate other cherry trees. For plums, Victoria is a reliable self-fertile variety.

If you haven't room for a cross-pollinating variety, consider buying a multi-grafted plant, or planting two different varieties of your chosen fruit trees in one planting hole. To save room it is also possible to espalier fruit trees. This means to train them to grow against a wall by training side branches in a horizontal direction and removing outward-growing branches. As well as leaving plenty of room for growing a pollinator, this also makes it easy to protect your fruit crop from predators such as birds.

WANT MORE ON FRUIT TREES?...

• Caring for fruit trees in winter
• Growing deciduous fruit trees
• How to plant a fruit tree
• Pruning fruit trees

DWARF TREES

In recent years, dwarf fruit trees have come to prominence, developed for small urban gardens. Some are grafted onto dwarf rootstock, while others are naturally dwarf varieties. The availability of dwarf peach (Pixzee), nectarine (Nectazee), apple (Ballerina and others) and citrus means you can enjoy a mini orchard in even the smallest gardens.

One of the most recent dwarf trees to come onto the market is an apple called Pinkabelle, which produces full-sized, Pink Lady apples on a compact tree just 2m high and 1m wide. It can even grow in a large pot. Its small growth is due to the fact that it is grafted onto a dwarf rootstock. Pinkabelle crops by itself but yield is improved if a Granny Smith apple is planted nearby. Also available now, and ideal for pots, is the aptly named Lots a' Lemons lemon tree. This compact plant has been developed for pot culture or for small gardens. It is cold tolerant with thin-skinned yellow fruit.

make your own compost in sri lanka natures way.

How to make compost from natures best farm.

Compost is made up of carbon and nitrogen or brown and green Material. Carbon and nitrogen in the compost needs to be in a ratio of 25:1. This means you need to add more carbon to your heap than nitrogen. Carbon: Brown material (25 parts) Straw Hay Breads Grains Wood ash Twigs Nitrogen: Green material (1 part) Manure Fruit and vegetable scraps Green leaves Flowers Grass clippings Crop waste.In Sri Lanka we are lucky to be blessed with nutrient rich soil however with yearly crop rotations nutrients need to be added with compost and fertilizers.

1. Find a flat, shaded area away from water or crops. 
2. Make a barrier around the compost to stop water from getting out. 
3. Make walls for your compost from star posts, garden stakes, chicken wire, wood panels, scrap metal sheeting, shade cloth or weed matting. You can also use a clean 44 gallon drum with holes (don’t use drums previously holding chemicals or petrol).
4. Compost heaps need to be turned. You can turn over a large compost pile with your tractor. A small compost pile can be turned with a shovel or rake.
5. Cover your compost pile with carpet, a tarpaulin, wood, scrap metal or matting.
 6. Shred material using a shredder, lawnmower or garden clippers.
Types of Composting

Before you start piling on, recognize that there are two types of composting: cold and hot. Cold composting is as simple as collecting yard waste or taking out the organic materials in your trash (such as fruit and vegetable peels, coffee grounds and filters, and eggshells) and then corralling them in a pile or bin. Over the course of a year or so, the material will decompose.

Hot composting is for the more serious gardener but a faster process—you'll get compost in one to three months during warm weather. Four ingredients are required for fast-cooking hot compost: nitrogen, carbon, air, and water. Together, these items feed microorganisms, which speed up the process of decay. In spring or fall when garden waste is plentiful, you can mix one big batch of compost and then start a second one while the first "cooks."At Natures best farm in sri lanka www.naturesbestfarm.blogspot.comwe organically grow our compost with crop waste,animal manure,paddy husk or straw and green and brown foliage.

  

Understanding Nutrition of soil for optimal plant health.

What is soil and how can gardeners improve it?Natures best farm.
Think of your garden soil as a living bacterial and fungi organism and understand the symbiotic relationship to reap the benefits in healthier and  high yielding plants.

• Share on Faceboodoes it mean to fertilise the soil? There is usually an implied understanding that chemical nutrients are to be added, in order to feed plants better. As a result, one ends up focusing on the nutrient needs of particular plants. An alternative approach is to consider soil as a living organism that has the ability, when well fed itself, to provide conditions of fertility. All plants can then thrive, as long as climate and pH are also correct. This approach benefits from knowledge of soil biology and the factors that can promote extra life in the soil. I suggest that soils with an abundance of fungi, bacteria, nematodes, worms, beetles and so forth have the ability to nourish plants with all they need, and to do so in a healthier way than when synthetic nutrients are supplied. In this article I offer a few thoughts on what makes soil fertile, in the biological sense, leading to healthier growth and less need for synthetic chemicals in the garden.
• What is soil?

Soil is more than a nutrient store for plants. Soil is a living organism respiring and full of life. 

Instead of seeing soil as a ‘nutrient store’ or ‘bank balance’ of plant food, we might imagine it as a living organism which is respiring and full of life – the skin of our Earth. The next step is to consider how to enhance the lives of all those soil organisms that have the ability both to give a healthy structure to soil, and to make nutrients available to plant roots. Two simple ways of doing this are by keeping a mulch of organic matter on the surface, and by avoiding any unnecessary cultivation. Scientists have revealed much about soils’ food chain, with invisible bacteria at the bottom and frogs, mice, birds and so on at the top. At the top of this chain is mankind, which has the ability to either destroy or encourage all the inhabitants underneath.

Soil is a living, dynamic substance, and the microbial life within it is crucial to providing plant life with the food they need to grow. The microbes can be bacteria or fungi, but both need space--the pores--for a good living environment.

Soil particles that clump together are aggregates. These are the architectural building blocks of soil. Their presence has a major effect on the behavior of the soil as a community. Multiple processes form the aggregates: cycles of wetting-drying, thawing-freezing, earthworm activity, actions by fungi, and interaction with plant roots.

                                                  The Living Soil Beneath our feet.

                                        Courtesy of California Academy of Sciences.

Maintaining soil health

                             Courtesy of Morehead Planetarium and Science Center.

A first step is to avoid regular use of synthetic chemicals that irritate or even destroy many soil inhabitants. And be extremely careful in their use – for instance, it’s better to use just two or three slug pellets under something like a piece of wood, then retrieve and bin the poisoned slugs. A second step is to avoid cultivating soil as far as possible. Thirdly, most positively, we can increase soil life by adding organic matter to the surface, keeping the most finely decomposed compost for plots where vegetables are grown. Adopting all three of these practices together is self-reinforcing. Not digging soil, for example, will lead to a more healthy soil population and more vibrant plants. Your plants then require less chemical assistance to keep disease at bay, especially when they are well adapted to your type of soil, location and climate.

Buying compost and manure

Home-made compost can be supplemented with bought-in compost or manure. Black and crumbly green waste compost and decomposed organic compost are often available at reasonable prices from Government Agricultural centres which are produced from Landfills by the Urban Councils. Animal manure can often be had for the cost of delivery alone and contains a lot of goodness, but is often lumpy and harder to spread evenly. Horse manure is better for heavy soils and cow manure for lighter soils. Many gardens in the past grew fine plants in soil improved with horse manure.

The soil food chain

There’s an incredible dynamism and intelinkage to the working parts of our soil. Blocking of any one group of organisms has bad effects on the others. We need them all.

1. Bacteria are vital to the planet’s health.
   There may be half a million in a teaspoon of healthy soil, mostly helping to decompose organic matter. When bacteria die, the nutrients they recycle become available to plants.
2. Fungi, unlike bacteria, can travel by increasing in length, helping to aerate soil and move nutrients around. Plant roots use mycorrhizal fungi to fetch and unlock minerals, especially phosphorus.
3. Protozoa include amoebae, ciliates and flagellates, which work with and, mostly, live off bacteria. Protozoa may supply as much as three quarters of plants’ nitrogen requirements.
4. Nematodes, or roundworms, are prolific and mostly beneficial, consuming everything below them in the chain, and some above, such as slugs. Above all, nematodes help to mineralise nitrogen.
5. Arthropods include mites, spiders, beetles, springtails (‘soil fleas’) and millipedes, whose main role is to shred organic matter such as leaves, speeding their decomposition.
6. Earthworms make casts up to 50 per cent higher in organic matter than surrounding soil. Their digestive enzymes make nutrients more available to plants. They can open up compacted soils and increase soils’ water-holding capacity.
7. Gastropods are slugs and snails, who play a vital role despite occasionally devastating our plants. Most gastropods live below the surface and convert organic waste to a more decomposed form. Their excretions help bind soil particles together.